Five Fabulous Scottish Bed and Breakfasts

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Six Brunton Place Guest House - Edinburgh
photo courtesy sixbruntonplace.com
At the end of a busy day, there is nothing better than to return to a warm, cozy room and relax.  Six Brunton Place Guest House in Edinburgh is an oasis in the middle of a bustling city.  It is conveniently located in the heart of Edinburgh, just across from the lovely Royal Terrace Gardens.  Six Brunton Place boasts 4 comfortable rooms and a mouthwatering breakfast selection.  It is within easy walking distance of the Palace of Holyroodhouse and is very close to several restaurant.  
 http://www.sixbruntonplace.com/index.html

photo courtesy northlandsbandb.com


Northlands Bed and Breakfast - Pitlochry
There is a reason that Pitlochry has been a major tourist destination in Scotland for over 150 years.  The natural beauty of the area combined with the Victorian feel of the high street draws people from all over the world.  Northlands Bed and Breakfast combines the charm of a Victorian home with elegant, modern accommodation.  With 3 spacious, comfortable rooms and a fresh, delicious breakfast served overlooking the gardens, a stay at Northlands is restful and rejuvenating!
http://northlandsbandb.com/index.html

Pitreavie Guest House - Dunfermline
photo courtesy pitreavieguesthouse.co.uk


Comfortable, homey rooms and beautiful gardens make Pitreavie Guest House an ideal base for touring Scotland.  Located in Dunfermline, just miles from Edinburgh, St. Andrews and Stirling, Dunfermline makes an excellent touring base for east and central Scotland.  Pitreavie boasts a wide selection of rooms, from an en-suite single to two family rooms.
http://www.pitreavieguesthouse.co.uk/index.htm 



photo courtesy daviotlodge.co.uk
Daviot Lodge - near Inverness
A comfortable, 5 star lodge in the country, close to Inverness and just a couple of miles from Culloden Moor, Daviot Lodge is a wonderful place to stay in the highlands.  Spacious, well appointed rooms and a breakfast of high quality local ingredients makes your stay perfect.  Daviot Lodge has several rooms for you to choose from!
http://www.daviotlodge.co.uk/index.html 

Barrimore Guest House - Oban 
photo courtesy http://www.barriemore-hotel.co.uk
Location and lots of character make the Barriemore Guesthouse in Oban one of the top B&B's worth visiting in Scotland.  Located on the Esplanade with views overlooking the bay, the Barrimore boasts spacious, updated rooms an a terrace where you can kick back and enjoy the view.  Just a short walk from beautiful downtown Oban and the sea front, you will be treated to a scrumptious breakfast with selections such as Oak Smoked Loch Fyne Kipper, Smoked Haddock or a traditional Scottish breakfast.  The Barrimore provides a high level of accommodation in updated, comfortable rooms.

Terrace Cafe - Floors Castle, Lost In Translation

Tuesday, June 9, 2015


Do you ever have those days while on vacation that just seem like you are not the sophisticated traveler that you thought you were or that next time the government is just going to say, No, you cannot leave the country because you are such a bad example to the world?   Yep, I have those days, and I am *hoping* that I am not the only one.  This is an example of a portion of one of those days, and it involves myself, my husband (Brandon), his mother (Tater) and Lulu...
It was a lovely spring day when we decided to visit Floors Castle. We arrived around lunchtime and noticed that there was a café a the garden center called the Terrace Café.  That was a good thing because we were hungry (as usual!).  The café turned out to be a lovely little place, bustling with smartly dressed people eating yummy looking food.  One thing that I always notice in restaurants in Scotland is that they sound different from restaurants in the US.  I believe that this sound is china teacups and saucers clinking together.  You definitely don't get that sound from the giant plastic cups in US restaurants!  So, here we are at this lovely café with smartly dressed locals and their clinking teacups and I already feel slightly out of place.  As an American abroad, I always feel slightly underdressed and obtrusive, like there is something setting me apart that makes people look and say, "oh, it's an American, I hope that they are not too loud and don't eat with their hands!"  The restaurant staff greeted us warmly and led us to a table overlooking a field of what appeared to be decorative grasses and wildflowers (I'm not a gardener, so I am not too familiar with plant names).  They handed us our menus, and this is when it began, our journey into a day where we were, if not Ugly Americans, we were Clueless Americans.
Terrace Café - photo by www.scottish-borders.info

The clue to this was when Lulu looked at the menu and promptly decided that everything was too expensive.  You see, Lulu is a small woman with a big appetite. That appetite however, is only apparent when presented with a $4.99 all you can eat buffet at Ryan's.  If you are not from the US and are reading this, or have never experienced an "all you can eat" buffet in the US, take a moment to Google Ryan's buffet and look at images, and it will give you an idea of the abundance of food.  At a buffet such as this, Lulu can easily consume 4 desserts (2 before the meal and 2 after), and at least one large plate of food, but probably 2.  However, the higher the prices go on food, the lower her appetite goes.  With the exchange rate between US and UK currency at that time, she was not hungry then entire trip to Scotland.  So, she promptly decides that the best course of action, since she is not hungry, is to order a green salad and a glass of milk.  After looking over the menu, Brandon and Tater were both interested in the Coronation Chicken, although none of us had ever heard of this and had no concept of what it was.  Our server that day was a young man, who I believe was just being trained for the job because there was another server assisting him at times.  Brandon and Tater ask the young man "What is Coronation Chicken?"  I must say, at this point the server looked a little baffled that we would not know this and responded "It is chicken in a sauce."  Hmmm, ok we still didn't really understand, so Brandon asked "How is the chicken prepared?"  The young man said, "Well... It's cooked...with a sauce."  I think at this point he was thinking "How could anyone not know what Coronation Chicken is?!?"  Well, we didn't.  I was a little leery of this exotic food, so I went with the mushroom and spinach tart, Brandon and Tater both ordered the Coronation Chicken, and as mentioned, Lulu ordered the green salad...and milk.  
At this point, thankfully, they brought us some lovely homemade bread, and it was delicious.  A little bit later, our food started arriving.  I need to add a caveat here.  Brandon is a picky eater.  He believes that mayonnaise was invented by the Devil.  So, first comes my spinach and mushroom tart, and it looked lovely. Then Lulu's green salad and milk.  It was exactly as advertised, a green salad.  She was a bit disappointed when she saw this, not really believing when she ordered it that it only greens. Then comes Brandon and Taters food, and I have to admit, when they sat it down in front of Brandon, my first thought was, "Why did they give him potato salad?" Brandon picked up his fork, thinking that there was a chicken fillet underneath whatever was just brought to him, and moved it around, trying to find the chicken.  There was no chicken fillet.  Brandon asked the server "What is this?" and the server, looking at him wearily, said "That's the Coronation Chicken".   Then it struck me, "Oh!  It's like a chicken salad!"  (This is what we in the US refer to chicken mixed with mayo and other ingredients.  Well, needless to say, Brandon was crestfallen.  I love mayo, though and quickly offered to change plates with him.  It wasn't the servers fault, after all, that we didn't understand what it was.  That dilemma solved, we moved onto eating.  As can be imagined, Lulu was not quite satisfied with her plain green salad and milk, and I have to admit at this time, we were teasing her that the cook had went out in the field by our window and picked grass for her plate :)  To improve the taste of the salad, Lulu decided to apply some of the course salt that was in a bowl on the table. She did so and then took a bite.  She chewed for a minute and said sadly "Now it feels like it has sand on it!"  Even though Lulu was not quite satisfied with her meal, the rest of us were very happy with ours, and Coronation Chicken has since became one of my favorite dishes to eat when I visit Scotland.
The servers and staff of the Terrace Café were very friendly and patient with us, and I would happily go back again.  I would highly recommend stopping by the Terrace Café if you are in the area.  The website is: http://www.roxburghe.net/plant-centre/plant-centre-terrace-café



Until next time,

Culloden Moor, a place beyond time

Thursday, June 4, 2015


 Full of grief, the low winds sweep
O'er the sorrow-haunted ground;
Dark the woods where night rains weep,
Dark the hills that watch around. 
Culloden Moor by Alice Macdonnell of Keppoch

If a place held the spirits of long dead men, Culloden Moor would be it.  There is a feeling on the moor of worlds colliding and a strong sense of grief from times past.  The Battle of Culloden Moor on the 16th of April 1746 marked not only the end of the Jacobite rising in Scotland, but the effectual end of the Highland Clans.  Nearly 7000 men, who were tired and starving rose up that day to fight against the Duke of Cumberland's forces.  2000 of them did not make it off the field.  Their bones are still there, buried in mass graves beneath the heather.  Stone markers lay on the tops of these graves, on them the names of the clans that fought and died that day, Fraser, MacLean, MacGillvary, MacIntosh.


 I remember the day I visited Culloden Moor, and I don't think that it is day I will ever forget.   It began as a sunny autumn day in September.  The bed and breakfast that we were staying at was just a couple of miles from the battlefield, so we got an early start.  I'll be honest here.  To me, the visitor's center at the battlefield seemed a little out of place. It was very modern and cold feeling.  Everything is definitely state of the art, but it felt to me as if the place needed something more reverent and reminiscent of the battle that had taken place there.  Walking out the door and into the battlefield, you are struck by an other-worldliness around you.  The realization that so many men had fought and died there, in effect, a whole way of life had died there, is quite overwhelming.  As we walked along the battlefield, a heavy fog began to roll in and settle among the stones marking the graves.  On the graves, visitors had placed heather and wildflowers in remembrance.  Since we had arrived early, the field was mostly deserted, and the combination of the fog and quiet made the place seem very alive with the past.  We walked among the quiet of the stones, and no, we didn't see any ghosts, but the feeling of the place definitely went with us through our day.  Perhaps it was just the somberness of a place where so many lost their lives, but Culloden Moor is like no place else I have been.  I would definitely recommend visiting and learning the history that has shaped the country that it is today.


If you are an Outlander fan, you will definitely recognize Culloden Moor from Dragonfly in Amber by Diana Gabaldon.  The little farm house that so many waited before loosing their lives, and where Jaime was saved from death still stands today.



Culloden Moor is a National Trust for Scotland property, and there is a fee to visit it.  Please take a look at the NTS website for more details: http://www.nts.org.uk/Culloden/Visit/
 

Until next time,

Down on the Farm: Benarty Holiday Cottages

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

photo courtesy: benartyholidaycottages.co.uk
 Benarty Holiday Cottages - Stables Conversion. Photo courtesy www.benartyholidaycottages.co.uk
"Still may the eye with rapture scan,
The wondrous works of God and man,
Outstretched for miles around.
Still see old Scotland's mountains high,
Lift then proud foreheads to the sky,
With heath and heather crowned"
Benarty by Henry Urqhuart


There are times when you are traveling that you are lucky enough to come across a place that you feel right at home.  For me, that place is Benarty Farm.  As a country girl, cities such as Edinburgh or Glasgow are nice places to visit, but after being there for a little while I begin to feel closed in and surrounded by the mass of humanity and vehicles.  I enjoy visiting the city, but having a retreat to escape to at the end of the day is essential.  When I initially booked a self catering unit at Benarty Holiday Cottages, the main draw was it's easy access to Edinburgh.  It is located just off the A90, approximately 25-30 minutes north of the city.  However, it is a perfect base for touring a large portion of Scotland.  It is less than 30 minutes drive to Perth, has easy access to the Fife coast, and is just over a 30 minute drive to Stirling.

For history buffs, the area of Benarty is teaming with history.  Benarty Hill is the site of an ancient Pictish Hill Fort, below Benarty Hill is Loch Leven and the famous Loch Leven Castle where Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned before escaping to England (she rode over Benarty Hill during her escape), and Benarty House and Farm itself is a historically listed property, being built in 1850 by a Mr. Wm Constable (the Constable family are still the owners of this property!).
 
There is only one issue that you might have if you choose to stay at Benarty Holiday Cottages, and that will be having to choose between staying in the historic converted Stables, or in the new Parkside Lodge.  I have stayed in both, and they each have assets that make them attractive.  First, to tell you about the historic stables.  The stables are part of the original buildings on the farm, having been converted into comfortable holiday accommodation several years ago.  We were fortunate enough to stay in the Horsemill during our first visit to Benarty.  It will definitely spoil you for any other self catering accommodation.  It is completely updated and modern with 3 bedrooms, a huge living area in the old horsemill, 3 bathrooms (one that is handicap accessible.), and an updated kitchen that includes a washer/dryer (a must when I am traveling, because I like to pack light).  The horsemill living area is surrounded by windows, and in the evenings we would sometimes see pheasants outside.




The next time that we visited Benarty, we stayed in their newly constructed Parkside Lodge.  This too was a 3 bedroom lodging, with 1 large bathroom and an open concept living area/kitchen. It also had all the amenities that you would expect at Benarty, kitchenware, washer/dryer/good heating, but the most impressive aspect of the Parkside Lodge was not what was inside, but what was outside.  The living area has a large glass door that opens onto a deck and overlooks the fields.  One of our favorite things to do was to sit on the deck and watch the sheep, which were lambing at the time that we were visiting.

Parkside Lodge. Photo courtesy: www.benartyholidaycottages.co.uk


Within walking distance of the holiday cottages, there are lots of places to hike and enjoy the countryside, even a woods nearby that is rumored to be haunted!  The owner of the cottages, Mrs. Barbara Constable, has always been delightful to work with.  There is a deposit that is required when you book the cottages, and I would strongly recommend sending it through Western Union, their fees are much more reasonable than most banks ($7.50 as compared to $30 at my bank).  Benarty is also convenient to grocery stores in Kinross and Dunfermline, and there are lots of restaurants to choose from in Dunfermline (only about 10 minutes away).  
I would strongly recommend staying at Benarty Holiday Cottages if you are looking for a touring base in Fife!
Their website is:
Benarty Holiday Cottages
or email Mrs. Constable:  E-Mail
Until Next Time,

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Monday, June 1, 2015

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Delightful Doune

Monday, June 1, 2015

Doune Castle is not a name that most people will recognize, by many people might know it from it's role in famous films and television shows.  Perhaps its most famous appearance was in the 1975, Monty Python and the Holy Grail, where King Arthur and his knights invade Doune in search of the Holy Grail.  There is even an annual "Monty Python Day" at the castle. It has appeared in both Ivanhoe films and in the TV Series, Game of Thrones, as Winterfell.

Most recently, fans of the Starz adaptation of Diana Gabaldon's Outlander series will recognize it as the McKenzie stronghold Castle Leoch.  Starz did an excellent job of transforming Doune Castle into Castle Leoch, and you can watch just how they accomplished that in this video from TV Guide:

In it's present form, Doune was constructed by the Duke of Albany between 1375 and 1425.  It has lots of wonderful rooms and spaces to explore.  A couple of my favorite places to visit in it are the "Mary Queen of Scots" bedchamber with it's modern (for 1500's) toilet and sleeping closet.  Also, on one of the upper floors is a small, cosy round bedchamber that I could imagine myself settling into quite nicely :)   The Lord's Hall is a lovely room that has been restored, and can be rented for events.
 
It seems like, for our family, a trip to Scotland is never complete without an awkward or embarrassing story to tell.   Doune Castle was not an exception to this.  On one visit to Doune several years ago, the public toilets were being constructed in a small cottage near the entrance of the castle.  At this time, there were portable toilets for public use.  There were not porta-potties, but full bathrooms.  My dear mother-in-law, Tater, was along with us on this trip.  Upon exiting the toilet, she pulled what she "thought" was a string that turned out the lights.  It wasn't.  We figured this out when a loud siren immediately started sounding!  It was some type of an emergency alarm.  So, we did exactly what anyone else would do... We ran as fast as we could to the car & sped away! 
The picture above is of myself and my husband on a more recent trip, taken in front of the more picturesque toilets at Doune.  Thankfully, this time we did not set off any alarms! 

Doune Castle is a Historic Scotland property.  They are open year-round, unless filming is taking place.  Other information including opening times, and admission prices are listed on their website:
Historic Scotland - Doune Castle
If you are interested in reading Diana Gabaldon's Outlander series, I would highly recommend it!

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